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Transformin Science Into Dreams:Taking A Closer Look
by Agnes Meilhacwww.beautyterm.com
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from the Greek kosmetikos or skilled at
a ornmen
artc es nten e to e ru e ,
poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on,ntro uce nto, or ot erw se app e to
the human body for cleansing,
eaut yng, promot ng attractveness,or altering the appearance
FD& Act
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Cosmetics:Part of Our Culture and Civilization
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Global Overview:
The Worldwide Cosmetics Market 1993 2009Average annual growth rate + 4.2%
Source: LOreal estimates, September 2010
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Market Structure and Size
Source: LOreal, 2008
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Top 10 Global Cosmetics Companies:
Source: LOreal, June 2009
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Main Business Segments
Source: LOreal estimates, 2008, excl. soap, toothpaste and razors
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Defining Factors
Externa
tra e
R&Dand
Innovation
Advertising/salesratio
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An Industry Geared Toward Exports
Size of exports in by country relative to the size of the domestic market (2006)
90% EU27
US
60%
70% Japan
China
Germany
30%
40%
France
UK
Italy
0%
10%
20% pa n
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Cosmetics Industry:
an nnova on
7,000
8,000
Progression in the number of patents published
5,000
6,000
China
3,000
4,000US
EU27
1,000
,
1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005Source: European Patent Office (EPO)
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Advertising Over Sales Ratio
Cosmetic advertis ing expenditure = $2.2 bn (2005)
20.00%
10.00%
.
0.00%
.
cosm
etic foo
phar
mac
wireless
unication
softw
are
cond
ucto
insu
rance
com
sem
li
Advertising / sales ratio across different industries in the US (2005)
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What Innovation?What Technology?
Waterproof mascara that does not runAnti-dandruff shampoos
Face powder that eliminates shiny skin
Light-reflecting pigments concealing
shadows under the eyes
Sun creams (protection against harmful
UV rays)
Self-tanning products
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oda s Brands
by
INNOVATION
(Handout p. 4)
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Innovation:from Science to Language
Language of Cosmetics
Lexical Syntactic Rhetorical
NeologismsVerbsVerbal
Active vs.Passive ToneImpersonal
Metaphors,similes andmetonymy
Buzzwords Superlatives
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The Language of Cosmetics:cienti ic, Tec nica , A vertising or Patc wor
(Handout p. 1)
advertising
sc encetechnology
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What Makes the Difference?
Borrow ings Neologisms Buzzw ords
&
Role of verbs
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Loan Words in Translation:
. -
concepts difficult to translate)La st re so rt fo r w a nt o f a b e tte r so lut io n o r
p re se rving e lem ents o f SL c ulture->f la c o n, am p o ule , p ip e t te , b ure t te , c rm e , e nf le ura g e ,
c a m ou fla g e m a keup , fo nd a nt (* )
2. From another field of expertise
Vina & Darbelnet (1958):
Thesimplest
of
all
translation
methods
to
overcome
alacuna
(gap),usuallyametalinguistic one(e.g.anewtechnical
,->stem c e lls, g row th fa c to r, DNA , fre e ra d ic a ls, o xid a t ive stre ss
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Fondant
sit
uttery, me taway, van s ng,rich and creamy, divinelyluscious, luxurious, sum tuous?
MATCHRONO
weMoisturizing emulsion
Enrichedwith
moisturizing
and
instant
n
y
actionmattifyingagents,thisastonishingly
freshtextured,fondantemulsionleavesskinlookingideallyshinefreeandfeelingm
p
application. Softfocus
pigments
work
to
concealtheappearanceofskin
irregularities. TheskinstexturelooksmoreKc
refined.
http://www.lierac.com/UK/products/face/hydration/mat-chrono_hydrationanti-shine/moisturizingemulsion.html
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MatChrono mulsionsit
Moisturizing Emulsion
we
Exclusivelyformulatedtopreventand
treatshinyskinandenlargedpores,
thiscreamforda timecontainsan
y
TripleActionComplexthatimproves
skinselasticity,regulatesthetzone
andtightenspores.OilFree.mp
$44.00 1.42OZ
Sc
http://www.lierac-usa.com/Products/Mat-Chrono%20Emulsion.aspx
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Linguistic Mutation orFre ng lish/ Denglish/ Spanglish?
Language
evolves
overtimeasusagec anges.
...manyborrowingsentera
translation...*
* Vinay & Darbelnet (1958)
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Loan Words in Translation:
1. From another language (culturally-boundconcepts difficult to translate)
La st re so rt fo r w a nt o f a b e tte r so lut io n o r p re se rving
u u->fla c o n, am p o ule , p ip e t te , b ure t te , c rm e , e nf le ura g e ,
c a m ou fla g e m a keup , fond a n t
2. From another field of expertise
Vinay & Darbelnet (1958):
Thesimplest
of
all
translation
methods
to
overcome
alacuna
(gap),usuallyametalinguistic one(e.g.anewtechnical,
->stem c e lls, g row th fa c to r, DNA , fre e ra d ic a ls, o xid a t ive stre ss
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Aquacurrent Science by P&G
-AquacurrentScience: Moving Moisture Where It's Needed.Water is the universal solvent - central to life on earth andessential to overall health, beauty and wellness. While skin
care and hair care products have traditionally focused on"locking-in" water moisture, the recent discovery of micro-channelsunderneath the skin's surface underscores theimportance of releasing and channeling water to maintainhealthy skin.
e o e rze-wnnng scovery o aquaporns, pro e ns conss ng o nymicro-channelsembedded in the skin cell walls underneath the skin's surface, isproviding scientists with a new and better target to retain and enhance moisturein the skin.
Aquacurrent Science, inspired by the discovery of aquaporins, is the basis ofunique product formulations that utilize the natural properties of water to helpmove moisture where it's needed for the best possible results. Click below to learnmore a ou app ca ons o s nnova ve sc ence.
http://www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com/aquacurrents.html=
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Aquaporin Technology by DIOR
HydrAction Collectiontheultimate
moisturizing
arsenal for
normal,
dry,
and
combinationskin.Fromsorbetlightcrmestoeffectiverefiningtreatments,
Dior'sskinsoothingsecretweaponAquacaptComplexhelpsreinforceyourcomplexion'snaturalmoisturereservestokeepitfeelingsoftandhydrated
all
day
long.
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5phrases for talking aboutHYDRACTION ?Activity
2003 Aquaporin 200521 3
in 1 second, encourages the passageof 1 billion water molecules
ON THE SURFACE:Immediate hydration
INTENSE AND ACTIVE HYDRATION TEST RESULTSafter only 1 application to the skin
+ 77 in immediate h dration
DEEP WITHIN:
Long-term hydration
The c el ls a re b rim m ing w ith m oisture
+ 30% in 24-hourhydration
,
skin rep len ishe d w ith m o istureDe hyd ra t ion line s d isa p p ea r, the skin
fee ls sup p ler, refreshed , p lum p e r, m ore
luminous and c om fortab le .
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Loan Words:Borrowed from Science
hydratemo stur ze
exfoliatescrub
regeneraterevitalize
dehydration,keratinization,detoxification,hyperpigmentation,
comedo enicit ostin lammator res onse hototoxic
reaction,free
radicals,
antioxidants,
trophicity,
dystrophy,
collagensynthesis,cellularmetabolism,lipolysis,lipogenesis,
, , , ,
extracellularmatrix,dermis,epidermis,stratumcorneum,etc.
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CalquesVinay & Darbelnet (1958):
Aspecialkindofborrowing,resultingineither:
A lexical calque(borrowedwordtranslated: ermocosme cs,cosmeceu ca s,ma y,
photoaging(shortforphotoinducedaging),destress,
dewrinkle...
A structural calque (borrowedexpressionwitheachofitselementstranslatedintoTL):
opticalcorrectorpigments(pigmentscorrecteurs optiques,Nuxe),headnote(also:topnote),heartnote(also:middlenote),
,
(stressfactors),cosmetoclinicaltrial,barrierfunction,...
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Calques: Examples
de-stress (FR: ds t r e s s e r):Elemis Soothing Chamomile Cleanser is a hypoallergenic,cooling, cleansing milk that removes impurities and make-up
whilst calming and de-stressing the most sensitive skins.
s ormu a e w armon zng ex rac s o erman amom ethat soothe and de-stress the skin. Good for extra sensitive,
delicate and hormonal skin.
de-wrinkle (FR : dr i d e r):LOral Dermo Expertise Age Perfect Cleansing Mil
Enriched with magnesium, known for its revitalizing propertiesand vitamin C known for its energizing properties, the formula:--Helps to de-wrinkle the skin and reduce the signs of fatigue inmature skin.--Hydrates the skin
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FR: dcongestionner eliminate / remove / clear
embedded impurities and
toxins, calm swollen areas
FR: dsincruster deep-cleanse (unclog the pores)
: , ,
FR:
sn trer e mna e excess u s, re ucedgonfler puffiness, reduce edema/swellingdsengorger by improved re-absorption anddrainer drainage of retained liquids and
toxins, calm swollen areas (Nuxe)
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Neologisms:New Wor Formations New Meaning
newly coined lexical units or existing lexical unitsthat acquire a new sense (Newmark, 2001:140)
Established: moisturizer / concealer
More recent coinages: bronzer, volumize , luminize /luminizing (YSL), highlighter, complexion-brightener(Dio), booster, corrector, cre iness, lide-on, outh
grafter (Helena Rubinstein) cosmeceuticals,nanoparticulate, MYO-aging (L'O ra l), photoaging,
,c a p ry loy l sa lic y lic a c id)
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Creative Compounding:Extensive Use in Eng is A vertising Language
- , - ,
body-contouring, figure-slimming, FR: amincissantskin-tensing, slimming
shinefree
bringalong
wrinklefilling
(insteadofacneic)
longerlastingonthego(FR:nomade)
(=filmogenic)
pickmeup
brushon
musthave
skinlifting
poreclarifying
touchup
fatiguebusting
lightreflecting,
naturallooking
lipidreplenishing
(FR:
relipidant)
(dfatiguant)
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Brand-Specific Concepts:
Translatin brand-s ecific conce ts = translatin
a Question of Corporate Culture
culture-specific concepts (CSCs)Possibilities:
Paraphrase: explain the meaning of the SL
expression instead of translating it
Modulation: use a TL term that seems similar toor has the same "relevance" as the SL term
Loan / borrowing: preserve the SL term intact
Neologism: make up a new word
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The Never-Ending Struggle:Finding the Right Balance
Venuti (1995):
.
peau intolrante
hypersensitivehypersensitive
skin
skin n o eran
skinn o eran
skin
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The Never-Ending Struggle:Finding the Right Balance
Venuti (1995):
Todomesticate
or
to
foreignize?
fixer la lumire
holdlightholdlight
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Chaque harmonie se compose de six teintes, parmi troisfamilles de couleurs, spcifiquement choisies pour recrer unclat sur mesure :-- Des couleurs correctrices pastel pour rectifier la tonalit de lapeau. Le vert attnue le trop de rose des teints clairs ; le rose
grse es e n s ernes ; e eu aun es e n s a gu s ; e
mauve fixe la lumire et claircit les zones dombres de tous lesteints.
Each color harmony is comprised of six shades, from threedifferent color families, which were specially chosen to recreatecustomized radiance:
- Corrective pastel colors to even out skin tone. Green diminishesthe excessive pink hue in fair skin; pink adds a healthy glow to adull complexion; blue takes the yellow tone out of tired skin;mauve re ec s se s or o s g an a s rg ness oshadowed areas in all complexions.
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Brand-Specific Choices:Combinations vs. Consistency
puffiness
and swelling puffy bags
dark
circles /shadows
puffy,undereye
bags
baggy eyes
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Buzzwords and Catchphrases:
Translation approach based on the principle of
equivalent effect and tailoring the message to the
anti-a in : a e-deceleratin C lin i ue
(Nida, 1964)
age-defying, age-reversing, age-perfecting,age-deflecting, de-aging
anti-aging, the Baby Boomer version:pro-youth, pro-age, preserving, imageextending, youth extending
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ooebVedOL
d f d l
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Product Benefits and Results:
er s an er a ec ves
us omers o no uy a p ro uc ;
they buy the bene f i t s and resu l t s i t a f f o rds
them.
activate,boost, accelerate,energize reduce,diminish,lessen,decrease
ease alleviate soothe a ease relieve attenuate minimize soften erase
fortify,strengthen,nourish,nurture rid/free(theskin), eliminate,remove
stimulate, invigorate relax,destress,dewrinkle
smooth,even
out,
plump
up,
firm mask, hide,
conceal,
disguise,
improve,enhance,emphasize fight,combat,battle
illuminate,brighten,suffusewith deemphasize
P d B fi d R l
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Product Benefits and Results:
er s an er a ec ves
er s w t t e pre x re (intention to produce a better result):
red e sig n the fa c ia l o u tlines
rest ruc ture the in te rc e llu la r c e ment ,
rep le nish mo isture re se rve s,
,
rejuve na te ,
rea c t iva te the skin s re p a ir p ro c e ss,
re te xtu rize / re f in ish the skin s surfa c e ,
re f ine the skins texture,
reg e n e ra te d a ma g e d c e l ls,
reb a la n c e d e e p h yd ra tio n ,
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Product Benefits and Results:Verbs and Verbal Adjectives
Participal/verbal adjectives
(same form as the participle of a verb)
ing(properties/qualities):relaxing, stimulating, invigorating,
exfoliating, nourishing, deep-cleansing, brightening, whitening,skin-lifting, pore-clarifying
exfoliated, lifted, plumped up, enhanced in appearance,
replenished
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Spotlight on
Adjectives and Adverbs:
xtens ve use o :
Evaluative /comparative adjectives:
For the first time, theres a remarkable gel that can give your hair
any look you want sleeker, fuller, straighter, curlier, more
, .
Adverbs (adjective or verb modifiers):
t o ro ug y mo s urze ea y y ra e s n, c a re u y se ec e
ingredients, expert lyformulated skin care products, beaut i ful ly
outhful com lexion la st in l nourished fla w le ssl smoothed
intenselyreplenished, genuine ly more even-toned, etc.
T i l Ch i (R i t )
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Terminology Choices (Register)
Distinguishing features of language associated withvariations in context and relating to the language
user (jargon) and/or language use:
1. f ie ld = subject matter. tenor = wr ter-rea er re at ons p
3. mode = formal/in formal
efficacy (FR: efficacit) effectivenesstechnicity (FR: technicit) technical expertise
superfatting extra rich,(FR: agent surgraissant, high-lipid,
gel surgras) lipid-enriched
Wh t M k th Diff ?
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What Makes the Difference?
tense,
active
,
interrogative
and cond.
of
negatives
(elliptical
sentences)
voice sentences
What Makes the Difference?
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What Makes the Difference?
e ap or,
simile,
erson ca on uper a ves
(hyperbole)
up em sms,
semantic
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Thank you for your attention!
Agnes Meilhacwww.beautyterm.com